Full City vs Espresso Roast

coffee-prep2Full City is the term used by many to describe the roast stopped as 2nd crack has just begun.

Espresso Roast is stopped during a “rolling” 2nd.  According to AJ, Valhalla lets 2nd crack roll for around a minute.  I had a look at Bluebeard’s hopper the other day, and I’d say they’re doing more of a Full City, maybe even a little shy of that; the beans I saw still had a visible silver skin in the fold of the bean, so that’s just my observation.  I didn’t ask.

I had a good comparison of the two roasts yesterday and today.  Yesterday was the Full City Guatemala beans, and today was the Espresso roasted Sumatra beans.

Today – Espresso Roast: If the Sumatra beans had been blended with something a bit brighter / more acidy, today’s coffee would probably have been tastier.  It was good, but lacked the high notes in the Guatemala.  It simply tasted like a dark roast, no personality.

Yesterday – Full City:  It was so good.  There was a deep chocolaty base with muted but present acidity.  If I try to describe it more than that, I’ll be making stuff up.  It was yummy.

I’ll be shooting for Full City.

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Ah, Espresso, How Do I Love Thee?

 If you follow this blog, you know that I’m like a guy that has discovered water or air.  For the most part, I think people are pretty much at peace with coffee, so this wild-eyed excitement about espresso seems pretty weird to most of my friends and family.  I mean, really; there’s nothing new to discover with coffee, for crying out loud.  My wife Kathy was telling me that an acquaintance of hers had seen this blog and said, “so…your husband …likes coffee…”   I think she felt a little defensive and said, well, he has a project.  Yeah.

When I talk to someone about espresso who has no idea what it can be like, who has a vague notion that it’s a nasty, over-strong coffee preparation method that they would just as soon leave alone, I encourage them to go down to one of our local establishments like Valhalla Coffee Roasters on 6th Ave., and order a macchiato.  The beverage you would get at Starbucks by ordering an espresso macchiato is not even close.  The art, the passion for excellence has been lost, forgotten at Starbucks.  It’s funny, I keep giving them the benefit of the doubt, and I’m always disappointed.  We were on the road heading for camping, and I stopped at Starbucks and ordered an espresso macchiato.  It was literally nasty and undrinkable. 

In contrast, a barista like AJ at Valhalla is extracting espresso with care and passion.  First of all, the coffee itself is a well-crafted blend, roasted with great care, right there in the store, usually only a few days before it’s served.  The machine is clean, the grind is perfected, the water is the correct temperature and pressure, the method of preparation is exact, the barista is bright-eyed and passionate about espresso, and the outcome is remarkable.  It is not bitter, it’s not sour, it’s not dirty-tasting, and it’s not burnt tasting.  It’s brilliant.

So the best way to discover espresso is to go find someone who is passionate about it.  Don’t go down to target and buy a Mr. Coffee “ espresso machine,” like I did, thinking that you’re going to give espresso a try.  The coffee you will make will first of all not be anything remotely like espresso, it’s something else altogether.  And it will be disappointing.  Go find out how good it can be. 

After probably a year of steam-extracting coffee with that little pot, I walked into Valhalla and ordered a latte.  It was very good, so I stopped by there occasionally until one day, the fellow in front of me ordered a macchiato, and I was intrigued by the little cup and his excitement about it, so I asked him about it and ordered one for myself.  That was the moment I discovered what good espresso tastes like.  I sat down to enjoy it and picked up David Shomer’s book there on the counter,  Espresso Coffee, Professional Techniques, and I was inspired to try to combine all these elements myself.

So yeah, I like espresso.  I like the challenge of it.  If it were simple, what would the fun be?

[buy a gaggia classic machine - you won't regret it]

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8 Tips for Producing Excellent Espresso at Home

doppioLike most things worth doing, there are very few shortcuts to making excellent espresso.  If you know of some, I’d like to hear about them.  Maybe you have a super automatic that makes awesome espresso.  Whatever your equipment, it seems to me that all of the ingredients must be present, with the appropriate attention to detail for each aspect of extraction.  The points below are things I’ve heard all along, and I repeat them deliberately to emphasize that I’ve found them each to be true; anything left out blows a hole in the operation.  Quit worrying about art on your coffee; steam the milk, put it on the coffee.  Concentrate on what matters:  getting rid of any sourness, bitterness, blow-outs, and generally eliminating poor extraction.

  1. The pump pressure needs to be 9-bar. I am thankful that the gaggia classic has an OPV valve that can be easily adjusted.  I bought it before I knew that it would be important.
  2. The temp needs to be around somewhere around 200 – 203F.  See the description of espresso on the coffeeresearch.org site. They include a discussion of temp.  I installed an Auber Instruments PID kit especially prepared for the gaggia classic.  It doesn’t measure the water temp, it measures the outside of the boiler, with a set point of 216F.  But Auber did a pretty extensive temp study correlating outside temps to water temps to get the right outcomes.
  3. The grinder is the hero in the arsenal. Believe it.
    1. grind is the trickiest bit, and really must be fine-tuned from trial and error;
    2. it’s also an environmental factor that will always shift with the weather.
    3. When it gets humid, I have to shift a click or so coarser.
    4. When I had a cheap grinder, it was very frustrating to not be able to rely on the setting; it would vary widely from day to day, so the most important piece of equipment, by most accounts, is a reliable burr grinder.
  4. Dosing is very important, too; typically I have around 23 grams in the portafilter; but formulas will fail you here; like grind, you have to work with the nuances of the coffee you’re using, and the grind.  In the video below, I knew before I pulled it that it was slightly under-dosed.  So I pulled it until it blonded rather than going strictly by a 25-second length.
  5. Distribution is at least as important as dosing and tamp to extracting a good shot.  If you are in a hurry and end up with crappy distribution, you’re likely to have channeling and a poor quality shot.
    1. That is why I really like the extra step of fluffing the grounds with a chopstick, as seen in the video below (and described in detail on home-barista.com – I do not concur with grinding into the cup; you can see what’s happening better and be more consistent by grinding into your portafilter).
    2. As you have no doubt read, tamp with around 30lb of pressure, keep it a very even stroke, one turn, one direction, and
    3. DON’T tap the portafilter after your main tamp. You’ll create channelling.



  6. While you’re dialing it all in, the bottomless portafilter is extremely valuable.  it’s not just cool, it lets you see very early in the shot whether you’re going to have channeling, whether your are extracting too slow, lots of things to learn from the view of your shot being extracted.
  7. FRESHLY roasted coffee!!!
    1. The Costco beans are old, not fresh, and not well-roasted. Don’t buy ‘em.
    2. If money is no object, find a local roaster and buy his espresso blend, or find any number of fine roasters, Valhalla Roasters, Bluebeard Roasters, even online sources, like Stumptown, etc.
    3. if money is an object, as it is for me, get yourself a popcorn popper (west bend poppery II works great, high watts) and learn the very easy art of roasting your own. My local roaster – big plug for BLUEBEARD ROASTERS – is very kind and makes me a deal on 5lb bags of excellent quality green beans.  I roast it when I need it, and let me tell you, it makes a world of difference to have fresh beans.
  8. Shoot for 1-3/4 to 2 oz. in 25 to 29 seconds.  This age-old measure is just a guideline, but it’s useful.  But also, don’t be afraid to throw back some nice rich ristretto shots. If you get to 25 seconds, and there’s an ounce of syrupy goodness, steamed milk covers a multitude of sins.  Also, I’ve found a useful little idea that seems to work:  if your shot is going along fine for 15 to 17 seconds and then suddenly channels, stop the pull and enjoy the coffee.  Chances are it’s just fine.  Or better yet, feed it to your teenager.  What she doesn’t know….

Compare your shots with your favorite commercial establishment; work these factors, and don’t give up until your coffee is every bit as good. There is joy in success!  AJ at Valhalla challenged me over a year ago that it was virtually impossible to get perfectly extracted espresso at home [without a similar machine to his].  Challenge accepted.  :-)

I would say that he’s just about right. There are precious few home machines that can be fine-tuned like the Gaggia Classic.  Some people opt to look for commercial equipment.  But I can tell you from experience that the Gaggia Classic can do it.  I bought my machine very lightly used on ebay for $250.  The Rancilio Rocky grinder was a craigslist find, also lightly used, also for $250.  PID kit was $150.  You’ll find lots of WestBend Poppery and Poppery II ‘roasters’ on ebay.  They’ll range anywhere from $10 to $30.  I was specifically shopping for one that was clean and didn’t have popcorn odors, so I did a buy-it-now for $30 and was very pleased with how nearly new it was.  You need to exercise extreme caution with roasting; you’re raising the temp to just under that magic temp where things spontaneously combust.  If you play with it and decide you are hooked, Sweet Maria’s has a great roaster oven that I’m eying. [update - that i purchased.] more on this subject.

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Valhalla rules.

I’m going to sum up my 6th Ave Coffee District posts with this: Valhalla rules. I love their passion, I love their consistency, I love their latte art, I love everything about them.

I was down there this weekend and picked up a pound of decaf beans, and it is just so good.

So go visit Valhalla – they really are the best.  If you go, forget what you usually order at other stores and get an espresso macchiato.

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coffee roasting

I received my West Bend Poppery II popcorn popper / coffee roaster and picked up some green beans from Valhalla.  The first go-round was very interesting.  I can’t get the smell out of my nose, which, incidentally, is nothing like the traditional rich smell of ground coffee.  it’s different.

I’ll be darn if I could detect a 2nd crack.  I heard popping kind of all along.  After the beans sat for several hours after roasting, I pulled some shots.  They were pretty sour; clearly, I need to give this another go.  Maybe they’ll be better in the morning, with a bit finer grind than i used.

They’re pretty shots, but that’s about it.

 

 

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Pressurized Portafilters

Well, I thought i was all cool, disassembling my Starbucks Barrista Athena pressurized portafilter.  I used it like that for a few weeks, playing with grind, tamp, etc.  I’m much older and wiser now.

Turns out Saeco knew what they were doing.  Imagine that.  Once I bought a burr grinder and got myself some very consistent grind, I found that I really needed the extra pressure from the portafilter.

Here’s my setup:

  1. Krups burr grinder, very inexpensive on amazon; finest setting.
  2. Almost all the pressure I can muster:
    1. Pressurized portafilter
    2. Course to fine grind and reeeally hard tamp, but not as HARD as I can.  I did that this morning; just a little slow, and not as tasty.
  3. And I add a little pressure at the very beginning of the brew by holding the spring-loaded portafilter to the right for not very long, 10 seconds or less

[edited august 5, 2011 - My advice:   don't take your pressurized portafilter apart - you will regret it.  and another hint i got from Seattle Coffee Gear's youtube videos, if you're using a pressurized portafilter, do not shoot for the typical 25 seconds - take what you can get, based your decisions more on taste, mouth-feel, crema, etc. ]

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In Pursuit of Good Espresso

I’ve been doing things to coffee in the name of espresso for a couple of years now. Bad things. I started with a Mr. Coffee steam espresso maker from Target. $39. I so wanted to make ‘Good Espresso.’ Boy was I failing.

A while back I wandered into a local roaster, Valhalla Coffee, and had a macchiato. This is actually a picture from that day, I was so impressed with it. Here was coffee that tasted amazing. While I was sitting there enjoying my coffee, I had a look at David Schomer’s book they had out on the bar. I sat and read a lot, and came away inspired. The book talked about things I’d never heard before, about pressure, grind, extraction, etc. Something clicked in my brain, and I had to try to accomplish this, not on his insane chemist / scientist scale but, on some level.  David’s first career had something to with scientific measurement.  That probably has a fancy name.  Those skills no doubt helped him become a brilliant mad coffee scientist.

I posted on facebook that I was looking for a machine, and a friend graciously gave me his Starbucks Barista Athena machine, and I’ve been hobbying with it for a few weeks. I’m hooked.

The Barista is made by Saeco.  It’s a decent little machine, has a brave little pump, and an adequate boiler capacity.  Hard to make lots of shots for a party, but for morning coffee, it’s great, and the price was right.  The portafilter on the Barista is a clever device, with a spring-loaded valve that lets the coffee through after a certain amout of pressure builds in the portafilter, as a way of pre-infusing the coffee – something I read about in Shomer’s book.

The problem with the portafilter is it limits how much you can adjust the quality of your shots.  You can only do so much to adjust grind and tamp pressure to vary your brew time, etc.  My first effort at modifying the portafilter was an evening wasted.  At that time, I was still letting valhalla grind my beans, and I was using a crappy tamp.  So all I got was crud.

The real time waster, after I realized the folly of my ways, was putting the portafilter back into functional condition.  The spring mechanism is a tender little thing.  And one of the stumps that props the left side of the spring simply broke off.  See the red arrow?  That’s pointing at a piece of a chopstick.   :)   Need I say more?  The black arrow points at a stump that is the approximate size of the missing piece.  Thankfully, the nice square hole was almost perfect for fitting with a chopstick.  I was worried about it popping out, so I superglued it in there.

When I ordered a nice, 53mm tamp from Espresso Supply in Seattle and started grinding my own beans, I was again ready to pop the guts out of the portafilter and try to adjust for the perfect cup with grind and pressure.

I was pleasantly surprised.  I made one cup that extracted too slowly, came out in drips, and tasted bitter, although very drinkable.  So I tried again; I didn’t powder the grind quite as much, and eased off on the tamp, and I got a significantly better-timed shot.

The photo was an after-thought (from my droid), after I sipped around on ‘em.  The shot on the right was actually the better of the two, but the goods have been sipped off the top, so it doesn’t look like much, but it had a non-bitter, nutty flavor that was really nice.  Both have been adulterated with a little milk.

In a few short weeks, I have managed to get really hooked on espresso.  A friend the other day told me about putting some brown sugar in the shot and drinking it straight.  Wow, that’s really good, too.

So if you have a Barista or other machine with a pressurized portafilter, be brave and pop out the mechanism and play around with it.  You’ll get better coffee.  Are my shots perfect?  Heck no, but it wouldn’t be any fun if it were easy.  I like a challenge.

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