I’m reeeeeeally enjoying the distinctive flavor of Ethiopian coffee. Here are some observations if you’re a home roaster.If you’re not, you need to be.
Sweet Maria’s recommends removing the quakers, as little unripe demons of astringent nastiness. They are called quakers presumably because they stand out in a crowd like a sore thumb. They are very blonde little dudes amidst the darker beans. When you look at ‘em you want to say, “what’s wrong with you, little guy, why won’t you roast?” The reason, as I understand it, is they were not ripe enough when picked.
I have been taking them out, and the coffee is great. On Sunday I had a cup of pour-over Ethiopian Harrar, and I asked the roaster what he does. He says, nope, leave them in there, because they give the the Ethiopian part of its wild sweetness. I’m not naming the roaster, because I respectfully

Roasted Beans from the Aleta Wondo vliiage. I did not roast these, this image is from the internet. Note the quaker prominently positioned on top. Making me second-guess my resolve to cull them. This happens to be the very origin of the beans I'm roasting, so I was excited to find this image - this is exactly what mine look like, too.
disagree with him. I purposefully added several quakers into the grinder as a test, and found that SM is right, the cup had a very slight parsimony dryness in the flavor; if the roaster I spoke to were correct, I think the thing i would have noticed, even if I am mistaken about exactly what it was I tasted (because I do not have a very sophisticated palette) I say, the thing I think I would notice would be an improved sweetness, be it ever-so-slight. But that was definitely not the case. So that’s that, for me.
The second observation is, if you roast into second crack with Ethiopian, you’re killing some of its sweetness. Time to call CPS – coffee protective services – because you’re abusing it. You may think you like it dark and smoky, but if you’re roasting some fine Ethiopian, you owe it to yourself and your family consumers, if any, to do a medium roast – don’t go to second crack. The flavors are marvelous. The harrar I had on Sunday was distinctly roasty flavored. But the Ethiopian that I’m roasting is short of second crack, and it is definitely sweet and wild and mmm good. The roast flavor is not what you notice. Having said that, I really enjoyed the harrar, but I can’t help wonder what it would have been like.
The final observation in this note: the longer it rests, the better it gets (to a point). First day, ho hum, 2nd day better, and today, it is marvelous. Let’s see, today I have had “several” aeropress cups and a couple of espressos, and it is BAM, spot on after 72 hours. I used to rather poo-poo the notion that I had to wait; with dark-roasted espresso beans, that’s about right, it’s good to go. But when there are hidden flavor treasures like you’ll find in Ethiopian beans, best to let it develop.
Go right now to sweet marias or your favorite supplier and get yourself some Ethiopian beans (and you’d better treat them right).